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Jewellery Guide

Platinum Care

Understanding 950 platinum, patina, and how it ages differently from gold

Platinum is naturally white, dense, and durable, but it ages differently from gold — understanding its natural patina helps you care for it correctly rather than fighting its character.

Platinum is often marketed as a "low-maintenance" metal, and in many ways it is — but it ages differently from gold, and understanding that difference helps you care for it correctly rather than fighting its natural character.

What Is Platinum?

Platinum is a naturally white, dense precious metal — roughly 60% denser than 18K gold — and one of the rarest metals used in jewellery. Unlike white gold, platinum's white colour is natural and doesn't rely on rhodium plating to stay bright. It's also naturally hypoallergenic, making it a common choice for sensitive skin.

950 Platinum

Jewellery-grade platinum is typically alloyed to 95% purity, stamped "950" (or "Pt950"), with the remaining 5% usually made up of metals like ruthenium or cobalt for added strength during fabrication. This is significantly purer than most gold jewellery alloys — for comparison, 18K gold is only 75% pure.

Purity Comparison

950 platinum (95% pure) is purer than even 22K gold (91.6% pure). This high purity is part of why platinum is naturally hypoallergenic and doesn't require plating to maintain its white colour.

Why Platinum Scratches Differently Than Gold

This is the most misunderstood part of owning platinum. When gold is scratched, tiny amounts of metal are actually removed from the surface. When platinum is "scratched," the metal is usually just displaced, not lost — platinum is a soft, malleable metal that shifts rather than chips away under light surface contact. Over time, this displaced metal builds up as a soft, satin-like surface texture called a patina.

Understanding Patina

Patina is the naturally developing brushed or satin finish that platinum acquires with regular wear — many owners come to prefer this soft, warm glow over the original mirror-polish finish. It's not damage; it's platinum's natural aging process, similar to how certain woods and leathers develop character over years of use. If you prefer platinum's original bright, reflective shine, a jeweller can professionally re-polish it at any time to remove the patina — though most jewellers will point out that the patina itself is often considered a desirable, authentic sign of a well-loved piece.

Cleaning Platinum

  • Wipe with a soft, lint-free cloth after wear to remove everyday oils and residue.
  • For a deeper clean, use warm water with a few drops of mild dish soap and a soft-bristled brush, then rinse and dry thoroughly.
  • If the piece includes diamonds or gemstones, choose a cleaning method safe for the most delicate material present — not just the platinum itself.
  • Avoid chlorine and harsh household chemicals, which can affect the metal's surface over repeated exposure.

Storage

Store platinum jewellery separately from other pieces to avoid surface contact marks, ideally in a soft pouch or lined box compartment. Platinum's density and strength make it highly resistant to bending or warping, so storage requirements are mainly about preventing surface abrasion rather than structural damage.

Resizing

Platinum can be resized, though the process requires more heat and skill than gold due to its high melting point and density — always have platinum resized by a jeweller experienced specifically with the metal. Because platinum is rarely lost during resizing (it displaces rather than sheds), well-maintained platinum rings often require less metal replenishment over their lifetime compared to gold.

Common Misconceptions

  • "Platinum never needs any care." It needs less maintenance than white gold (no re-plating), but still benefits from regular cleaning and periodic professional polishing.
  • "A scratched platinum ring has lost metal." In most everyday scratches, the metal has simply moved, not disappeared — this is the basis of platinum's patina.
  • "Platinum is the same as white gold." They look similar but are entirely different metals — platinum is naturally white and denser, while white gold is a yellow-gold alloy plated white with rhodium.

Professional Polishing

If you prefer platinum's original high-shine finish over its natural patina, a jeweller can re-polish the surface — a straightforward service that removes light surface texture and restores reflectivity. Because platinum isn't lost in the same way gold is during polishing, this can typically be done multiple times over a piece's lifetime without meaningfully thinning the metal.

Key Takeaways

  • 950 platinum is 95% pure — purer than even 22K gold — and naturally white without needing rhodium plating.
  • When platinum "scratches," the metal is usually displaced rather than lost, building up into a soft patina finish over time.
  • Patina is a natural aging process, not damage — it can be professionally re-polished away if you prefer the original mirror shine.
  • Platinum and white gold look similar but are different metals — platinum is naturally white and denser; white gold is rhodium-plated yellow gold.
  • Always have platinum resized or repaired by a jeweller experienced specifically with the metal, due to its high melting point and density.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is platinum better than gold?

Neither is objectively "better" — they have different properties. Platinum is denser, naturally white, and hypoallergenic, developing a patina over time. Gold is more workable, available in more colours, and typically more affordable at comparable purity. The right choice depends on your priorities.

Why does my platinum ring look duller than when I bought it?

That's patina — a natural, soft satin finish that develops as the metal's surface is gently displaced through everyday wear. It's not a loss of metal or a defect, and many owners prefer this finish over time. A jeweller can restore the original shine through polishing if you prefer.

Does platinum need to be re-plated like white gold?

No. Platinum is naturally white all the way through, so it never needs re-plating. This is one of platinum's key advantages over white gold, which relies on a rhodium plating that wears down over time.

Can platinum jewellery be resized?

Yes, though it requires a jeweller experienced with platinum specifically, since it has a higher melting point and different working properties than gold. The resizing process itself is very similar in concept to gold resizing.

Discover the quiet luxury of platinum — naturally white, dense, and built to age gracefully.

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